Valparaiso: Grit, Grime and more Street Art

Travelling two hours east of Santiago, the capital’s affluence is almost tangible in comparision to Valparaiso. Chile’s third largest city and one of the country’s poorest.

Valparaiso stands as the crest fallen and downbeat member of the family, fallen upon hard times. The early half of the 19th century saw Valparaiso act as a major port for ships travelling between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans and subsequently labelled the “The Jewel of Pacific”.

The construction of the Panama Canal enabled a faster, cheaper and more convenient alternative signalling Valparaiso’s slow decline. Today the city’s architecture stands as a reminder of a bygone era, receiving UNESCO World Heritage status in 2003.

An anarchic and schizophrenic jumble of gritty urban design and rich architecture built across a series of steep hills forming a natural amphitheatre overlooking the cities once busy port and the Atlantic ocean.

Atlantic Views

Walking the city’s steep cobbled streets becomes a visual adventure, every available surface forms a part of artistic expression. From brightly painted houses, to customised lamp posts and a jumble over wires looming overhead.

Lamp Posts

Spidering off the cobbled streets a series of narrow alleys and walkways are no different.

Alleys

Street corners have everything from graffiti tags.

Signs

To multiple tags, murals and stencils.

Corners

Neither Stair wells.

Stairs

Stairs.

Stairs

Or roofs are spared from urban artists.

Art everywhere

Each twist and turn of the city sees you stumble on something quirky and left of centre, from bike wheels.

Bikes

To photogenic and strategically placed chairs.

Chair

Artistic inspiration comes from every where, including the old masters like Van Gogh.

Van Gogh

To South America staples. Llamas and Peruvian folklore.

Mapuche

The Museo Cielo Abierto showcases 20 murals from the early 1990s through to the early 2000s.

Old Street Art

With the passage of time these masterpieces begin to flake and fade. Tags begin to appear as new artists mark their territory like dogs.

Cielo Abierto

Returning to the streets modern pieces stand in stark contrast to these old styles as taste change. Derelict buildings tell of the affliction to the 9-5 job.

Derelict

Others tell a more personal story, in this case the house owner’s journey by sea from Germany during the second world war.

Water

Some are flighty statements.

Planes

Some are a tongue in cheek pop at modern culture and social media.

Faithbook

Little details catch your eye.

Detail

As do houses. Full frontal!

Flower

Valparaiso. Where modern urban art and normal day to life combine.

Stairs

3 Comments

  1. Nic Howarth
    16/06/2014

    Wow, more great photos, great to see the show is on the road again. Keep those pedals spinning big man 😃

    Reply
  2. Mark
    18/06/2014

    Hi Mike
    Always enjoy perusing your messages and photos.
    When are you due back home?
    P.s we’ve got two Suri alpacas👍

    Reply
    • Mike
      20/06/2014

      Hey Mark

      Great to hear from you.

      Alpacas. A wise purchase for deepest Yorkshire! :-0

      Should be back by the end of the year. Lots of detours planned before heading home.

      Take Care

      Mike

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