Ecuador: Trans Ecuador and rich dirt veins
Whilst Peru brazenly lays its wares out to bear, offering a dizzying array of dirt roads through high Andean country, by contrast Ecuador has a girl next door charm.
Shy and difficult to get to know at first but scratch beneath the surface, dig a little deeper and you will find a country as equally beguilling. A rich vein of dirt coursing through the Central Highlands and in to the country’s volcanic corridor.
With compadre Cass back on South American soil, a plan is hatched to join him and the Ecuadorian based Dammer brothers as they team up to piece together a route spanning the length of the country on lesser travelled singletrack and historic routes high up in the Paramo dubbed ‘Trans Ecuador’.
Arriving early on a Tuesday amidst Guamote’s thriving market, I wander amongst the throng of local Andean villagers who have come to do their weekly shopping, everything from a humble mango to sheep are on offer.
Meeting the the Trans Ecuadorian crew, the first thing that comes to mind is food. The ubiqutious staple of chicken and rice gives myself, Cass and the brothers chance to acquaint ourselves and catch up.
Farmers, Climbers, Mountain Guides and avid Bikepackers the brother’s enthusiasm is immediately obvious. Over the coming days their warmth and kindness comes to shine through as we form a tight knit group, cooking, eating, riding and laughing together.
Like any good adventure Trans Ecuador leaves a lasting impression a rough and rugged DIY adventure shared amongst friends old and new. A tough uncompromising route, and the unique riding style of the high paramo, Trans Ecuador leaves a lasting impression.
Mijael & Matthias: Surly Pugsley & Surly Krampus
Thomas: Salsa El Mariachi
Farmers by trade the brothers are used to early morning starts. 7.30am mist and cloud hang in the air.
Climbing up in to the Paramo, a patchwork of fields and lingering clouds in the valley.
Big country riding.
A suprise Andean lunch. Trout, savoured as we sit out passing rain showers.
Ecuador: land of helter skelter style roads.
The following day a big hike-a-bikes take us over 4,000m. A seemingly never ending series of ridgelines follow one another.
Rocky ridgelines interspersed with narrow muddy trails, make for tortously slow going. Unaccustomed to the riding style I lag behind as the brothers power off in to the distance.
Camping high up, we are rewarded with a beautiful morning sunrise and cloud inversion.
A grumbling camera refusing to turn on and an equally unhappy stomach make for a long day as we join the Inca trail and head for the town of Ingapirca.
Feeling no better the following morning I leave the guys to continue southwards.
A hop, skip and a jump by bus back to Cuenca to recover for a few days, I once again to return to Guamote by bus precisely a week later to begin my journey north.
Quiet dirt roads take me around the flanks of Volcan Chimborazo (6268 m).
Dirt roads cut through the tussocks.
Climbing higher up the flanks of Chimborazo vicunas graze on the land.
Putting Chimborazo behind me, a beautiful back road takes me down to the town of Salinas. In recent history Salinas has redeveloped itself from another gloomy Andean town relying heavily on subsistence farming to a set of thriving cooperatives producing cheese, chocolate and textiles with it bringing additional tourism.
With tourism comes gringos and I spend my one year anniversary of cycling in south america with fellow travellers and a healthy dose of red wine. Leaving Salinas the following morning with a slightly foggy head, the weather sympathises enshrouding me in cloud for the rest of the day.
Climbing higher lush green valleys are revealed.
As ever the high Andean landscapes breath taking, patchwork fields above Angamarca.
The Pugs and the Quilatoa Lake. Ditching the bike I scoot around the crater’s rim by foot before continuing.
Before dropping down in to the Toachi Gorge, bound for Isinlivi.
Ecuador has a variety of higher end accomodation options, nearing the end of my trip I decide to treat myself at Llumu Llama.
Set in an old farmhouse, with bare wood floors and open fire its the antithesis my usual lodgings. The breakfast and views arent bad either.
Soon descending to Tocasco and the Panamerican highway.
Briefly crossing the Panamerican I take tree lined forest roads, as Cotopaxi comes in to view.
Descending too low, morning mud awaits me as I retrace the previous evenings descent.
Following vague trails, I’m temporarily lost as my GPS runs out of battery. Empty valleys….was it this one?
Reaching Hacienda El Tambo, I begin following broader trails.
Amongst the gloom Cotopaxi’s glacier extends beneath the cloud, as I ride toward the northern exit.
Fine Ecuadorian cobbles taking me to Tumbaco on the outskirts of Quito and the Casa De Cicilistas.
A special thanks goes to everyone at Cikla (Cuenca) for their help sourcing a new tyre for me, and the use of their workshop.
To Santiago Lara and family at the Casa De Ciclistas in Tumbaco for their kindness and hospitality.
Guamote – Colta – San Juan – Chimborazo – Salinas – Simiatug – Angamarca – Zumbahahua – Quilatoa – Isinlivi – Tocaso – Saquisilli – Cotopaxi – Tumbaco